Maximize your length with retention

I may have mentioned before that one question I get A LOT (so I keep answering) is "What can I use to make my hair grow?"  In my opinion hair growth aids are only as effective as the techniques you use to retain the length that you gain while your hair is growing. There are a lot of suggestions out there for ways in which you can go about retaining length. It's easy to get overwhelmed so I have tried to compile a list of the suggestions that are pretty consistent from source to source.

Protective styling - This can include low manipulation styles and minimal heat use. Many individuals feel strongly that protective styles only include twists, cornrows, and/or updos. For those of you that, for numerous reasons, opt to wear styles that don't include twists or braids; there are other options. Those options can include buns, wigs, and phony ponys.

Balance - Moisture and protein. Too much of either can lead to breakage. Examine your hair and give it what it needs when needed. Sometimes following a strict regimen can do more harm than good.

 

Healthy diet - You can't put junk in your body all day every day and expect your hair to flourish. When your body is lacking nutrients your hair will be one the last to get those nutrients once you put them in your body. Think about it this way - what happens when you put cheap gas in your car? It sputters, backfires, and drives terribly. A good grade of gas does so much better. Treat your body like the temple that it is.

Gentle hands - Handle your hair like a fine $10,000 silk scarf. Take it from me - I use to yank the combs thru my hair and brush roughly, I stayed at the same length for years. After I learned to treat my hair like I truly loved it I started to see results. Presently, I am not afraid to trim off a few inches here and there because I know that my hair will grow and that I can retain the length. One of the biggest lessons I learned for handling was to detangle from ends up to the root. I used to actually start at the root! Big NO NO.

Product choice - It is more helpful for your strands that you choose a product that is beneficial for your hair type. If your hair likes silicones use them, don't stop just because person x said they were bad. If you get a better response from all natural products then use them. Just because someone said you can add something natural to something commercial and get the same effect does not mean that you have to do just that. It's your hair and even if you happen to come across a person with a similar type, it does not guarantee that the same product will work the same way for you.

In a nutshell:

• Low manipulation and gentle handling is key
• Minimizing harmful products and heat is helpful
• Moisture and protein can help your hair thrive
• Detangle from tip to root in sections
• Healthy hair begins on the inside

See some other tips here: Retaining Hair Length

Got additional tips and advice? Please share them below.

Maximize your length with retention

I may have mentioned before that one question I get A LOT (so I keep answering) is "What can I use to make my hair grow?"  In my opinion hair growth aids are only as effective as the techniques you use to retain the length that you gain while your hair is growing. There are a lot of suggestions out there for ways in which you can go about retaining length. It's easy to get overwhelmed so I have tried to compile a list of the suggestions that are pretty consistent from source to source.

Protective styling - This can include low manipulation styles and minimal heat use. Many individuals feel strongly that protective styles only include twists, cornrows, and/or updos. For those of you that, for numerous reasons, opt to wear styles that don't include twists or braids; there are other options. Those options can include buns, wigs, and phony ponys.

Balance - Moisture and protein. Too much of either can lead to breakage. Examine your hair and give it what it needs when needed. Sometimes following a strict regimen can do more harm than good.

 

Healthy diet - You can't put junk in your body all day every day and expect your hair to flourish. When your body is lacking nutrients your hair will be one the last to get those nutrients once you put them in your body. Think about it this way - what happens when you put cheap gas in your car? It sputters, backfires, and drives terribly. A good grade of gas does so much better. Treat your body like the temple that it is.

Gentle hands - Handle your hair like a fine $10,000 silk scarf. Take it from me - I use to yank the combs thru my hair and brush roughly, I stayed at the same length for years. After I learned to treat my hair like I truly loved it I started to see results. Presently, I am not afraid to trim off a few inches here and there because I know that my hair will grow and that I can retain the length. One of the biggest lessons I learned for handling was to detangle from ends up to the root. I used to actually start at the root! Big NO NO.

Product choice - It is more helpful for your strands that you choose a product that is beneficial for your hair type. If your hair likes silicones use them, don't stop just because person x said they were bad. If you get a better response from all natural products then use them. Just because someone said you can add something natural to something commercial and get the same effect does not mean that you have to do just that. It's your hair and even if you happen to come across a person with a similar type, it does not guarantee that the same product will work the same way for you.

In a nutshell:

• Low manipulation and gentle handling is key
• Minimizing harmful products and heat is helpful
• Moisture and protein can help your hair thrive
• Detangle from tip to root in sections
• Healthy hair begins on the inside

See some other tips here: Retaining Hair Length

Got additional tips and advice? Please share them below.

Heat and Your Natural Texture

Question: Why Won't My Hair Return to its Natural Texture After Pressing?

If you've pressed your natural hair for years (or even once with an iron or comb that was too hot), you may find some sections don't snap back anymore, even after shampooing. What happened to your hair's ability to revert back to its natural texture once water hits it?

Answer:

What happened is heat damage. Yes, your hair can lose its ability to curl and will remain permanently straight, and damaged. This happens when you use heat that's too high – it doesn't have to happen over time. One incident with a too-hot curling iron, flat iron or hot comb and this could happen. Even if you wear your naturally curly hair straight all the time, this isn't a result you want because the hair has been fried straight and is not healthy.

The only solution for the damaged hair is, unfortunately, to cut it off. If you have several damaged sections all over, you'll need to get rid of them, which means an overall cut. If you're trying to grow your hair longer, this is probably the last thing you want to hear, but it's necessary for the overall health of your hair. Once you cut off the damaged parts, you can start or return to a healthy hair regimen.

Source: Flat Iron Damage

---

The above question is a situation that many naturals can find themselves in after straightening.

I haven't received the following question directly but I have seen it a lot on numerous hair boards. This seems to be a frequent hot topic (no pun intended). 

My experience? I've never been relaxed but I did wear a press n curl for years. Since a stove top hot comb was used on my hair and I could hear the grease sizzle, I am pretty sure that I suffered some form of heat damage. For a few years the curls on one side of my head were looser than the other side. It's possible that those loose curls were a reflection of that damage. 

I used to think that over time my curls did actually revert but the more I think about it, I am convinced that reversion was not what was happening. I dye my hair (maybe twice a year) and that's no secret. Well, because I dyed my hair I could tell by the roots that my hair was growing however, my length always stayed the same. Breakage.

So now my train of thought? My heat damage grew out and broke off. Many lessons learned. I still have my pressing comb but I have not used it in years. I stopped pressing/straightening my hair regularly starting January 2005. I may straighten my hair 1-2 times a year and when I do, I now use my ceramic flat iron on med heat. So far I have not suffered any more damage, my curls revert (fast), and I am retaining length. 

I am sure that I am on the right path now when it comes to heat.

Heat and Your Natural Texture

Question: Why Won't My Hair Return to its Natural Texture After Pressing?

If you've pressed your natural hair for years (or even once with an iron or comb that was too hot), you may find some sections don't snap back anymore, even after shampooing. What happened to your hair's ability to revert back to its natural texture once water hits it?

Answer:

What happened is heat damage. Yes, your hair can lose its ability to curl and will remain permanently straight, and damaged. This happens when you use heat that's too high – it doesn't have to happen over time. One incident with a too-hot curling iron, flat iron or hot comb and this could happen. Even if you wear your naturally curly hair straight all the time, this isn't a result you want because the hair has been fried straight and is not healthy.

The only solution for the damaged hair is, unfortunately, to cut it off. If you have several damaged sections all over, you'll need to get rid of them, which means an overall cut. If you're trying to grow your hair longer, this is probably the last thing you want to hear, but it's necessary for the overall health of your hair. Once you cut off the damaged parts, you can start or return to a healthy hair regimen.

Source: Flat Iron Damage

---

The above question is a situation that many naturals can find themselves in after straightening.

I haven't received the following question directly but I have seen it a lot on numerous hair boards. This seems to be a frequent hot topic (no pun intended). 

My experience? I've never been relaxed but I did wear a press n curl for years. Since a stove top hot comb was used on my hair and I could hear the grease sizzle, I am pretty sure that I suffered some form of heat damage. For a few years the curls on one side of my head were looser than the other side. It's possible that those loose curls were a reflection of that damage. 

I used to think that over time my curls did actually revert but the more I think about it, I am convinced that reversion was not what was happening. I dye my hair (maybe twice a year) and that's no secret. Well, because I dyed my hair I could tell by the roots that my hair was growing however, my length always stayed the same. Breakage.

So now my train of thought? My heat damage grew out and broke off. Many lessons learned. I still have my pressing comb but I have not used it in years. I stopped pressing/straightening my hair regularly starting January 2005. I may straighten my hair 1-2 times a year and when I do, I now use my ceramic flat iron on med heat. So far I have not suffered any more damage, my curls revert (fast), and I am retaining length. 

I am sure that I am on the right path now when it comes to heat.

Trim your nails!

"Trim your nails!" is what I yelled at myself just now. I was braiding my hair for tomorrow's braid-out and heard my nail slice one of my strands. Typically, trimming my nails is the first in my regimen but tonight I just forgot. Lesson learn...again.

Trim your nails!

"Trim your nails!" is what I yelled at myself just now. I was braiding my hair for tomorrow's braid-out and heard my nail slice one of my strands. Typically, trimming my nails is the first in my regimen but tonight I just forgot. Lesson learn...again.

The "BC" and dryness

I have noticed that a lot of individuals that have BC'ed (Big Chopped) report dryness shortly after BCing. Is this something that comes with the territory or is it hit and miss kind of thing? Poll below:




Help a fellow natural: If you experienced dryness, how did you handle it?

The "BC" and dryness

I have noticed that a lot of individuals that have BC'ed (Big Chopped) report dryness shortly after BCing. Is this something that comes with the territory or is it hit and miss kind of thing? Poll below:




Help a fellow natural: If you experienced dryness, how did you handle it?

Post henna

I stated that I was nervous about doing a henna treatment on top of blue-black dye but it turns out that I had nothing to worry about. The only thing is I lost my dark color and I am back to brown and my gray's are copper. Do I care? No not really, because color doesn't scare me.

Here's how my hair looked in the sun after the henna:

I did a simple henna mix with using only a strong black tea.

1 box Jamila Henna

2 Cups of black tea (2 reg size tea bags used in 1 quart of water)

I used Giovanni TTT was the condish to rinse out the henna and Giovanni SAS for my deep treatment.

**UPDATE**

Mini tutorial of my henna process:

Post henna

I stated that I was nervous about doing a henna treatment on top of blue-black dye but it turns out that I had nothing to worry about. The only thing is I lost my dark color and I am back to brown and my gray's are copper. Do I care? No not really, because color doesn't scare me.

Here's how my hair looked in the sun after the henna:

I did a simple henna mix with using only a strong black tea.

1 box Jamila Henna

2 Cups of black tea (2 reg size tea bags used in 1 quart of water)

I used Giovanni TTT was the condish to rinse out the henna and Giovanni SAS for my deep treatment.

**UPDATE**

Mini tutorial of my henna process:

How often do you deep condition your hair?

Feel free to explain your answer...why you don't deep condition or the benefits you get from deep conditioning.

How often do you deep condition your hair?

Feel free to explain your answer...why you don't deep condition or the benefits you get from deep conditioning.

Scalp Experiment: Moisturizing

All winter because of the dry air if I do not moisturize my body properly or if I use a soap that is too strong my skin will start to feel tight, itchy, and a burning sensation all over. So I started to think....what if my scalp goes through the same thing as my skin?

-When my scalp is itchy I barely have flakes if I have any at all. So I assumed I didn't have a dandruff problem.

-I use the same shampoos and conditioners all year long but only itch during the winter season so I assumed it wasn't an allergic reaction to a product I was using.

-I don't do any weird treatments that would send my hair and scalp into a confused frenzy. And I only switch between two products at a time, just like I do in the summer.

So after days of going through process of elimination....my skin and hair started itching at the same time. A went to get the shea better for my skin, I glanced at the spray bottle of aloe vera....EUREKA! My scalp is just dry and when dry, it itches like my skin. Then I scratch like crazy and it gets sore.

To test my theory I have been moisturizing my scalp every other day with aloe vera....it has been working. To see if it was the aloe vera and not just a change in weather, I skipped a moisturizing session and the itching came back. I am convinced my scalp and skin just hate the cold as much as I do. Why oh why couldn't I figure this out about 3 months ago, LOL.

I also assume that the Castor oil wasn't making much of a difference with the itching because I was applying it to dry scalp - there wasn't any moisture to lock in. So now I oil after washing/co-washing and I have also added a midweek co-wash to my winter regimen. Although winter is near the end when as I make my discovery at least I will be ready for the next winter season.

Sources:

Prevent Itchy Scalp in the Winter

Scalp Itching

Soothe a Dry, Itchy Scalp

Curing Dry, Itchy Scalp in Natural Black Hair

Scalp Experiment: Moisturizing

All winter because of the dry air if I do not moisturize my body properly or if I use a soap that is too strong my skin will start to feel tight, itchy, and a burning sensation all over. So I started to think....what if my scalp goes through the same thing as my skin?

-When my scalp is itchy I barely have flakes if I have any at all. So I assumed I didn't have a dandruff problem.

-I use the same shampoos and conditioners all year long but only itch during the winter season so I assumed it wasn't an allergic reaction to a product I was using.

-I don't do any weird treatments that would send my hair and scalp into a confused frenzy. And I only switch between two products at a time, just like I do in the summer.

So after days of going through process of elimination....my skin and hair started itching at the same time. A went to get the shea better for my skin, I glanced at the spray bottle of aloe vera....EUREKA! My scalp is just dry and when dry, it itches like my skin. Then I scratch like crazy and it gets sore.

To test my theory I have been moisturizing my scalp every other day with aloe vera....it has been working. To see if it was the aloe vera and not just a change in weather, I skipped a moisturizing session and the itching came back. I am convinced my scalp and skin just hate the cold as much as I do. Why oh why couldn't I figure this out about 3 months ago, LOL.

I also assume that the Castor oil wasn't making much of a difference with the itching because I was applying it to dry scalp - there wasn't any moisture to lock in. So now I oil after washing/co-washing and I have also added a midweek co-wash to my winter regimen. Although winter is near the end when as I make my discovery at least I will be ready for the next winter season.

Sources:

Prevent Itchy Scalp in the Winter

Scalp Itching

Soothe a Dry, Itchy Scalp

Curing Dry, Itchy Scalp in Natural Black Hair

Color Change: Natural Blue Black

After years of brown and red shades of dye I was ready to revisit black hair. I purchased Clairol Nice n Easy Natural Blue Black from Walgreen's for my new shade. Prior to dyeing my hair I read the instructions and saw that it was not recommended to use the dye on hair that was previously treated with henna. The instructions did not say why so I had to do my own research. I came across these two articles:

Henna & Traditional Color

Hair Color Removers

I did not do the remover instead I opted to take my chances with the color over the henna.

The steps I follow for dyeing my hair include:

1. Application of the dye according to the instructions

2. Leaving the dye on for 40-45 minutes

3. Rinsing thoroughly

4. Deep conditioning for a very long time. I prefer to DC overnight

5. Styling my hair in a style that embraces the natural curl

Why?

Dye on my hair can be very drying and it can also stretch out the curl pattern. By DCing for a long time the dryness I experience is drastically decrease. Styling in a curl embraces style helps keep my curls from stretching - preventing a change in my texture. If I style correctly I will have major shrinkage and that is my sign that my curls still love me.

Color Change: Natural Blue Black

After years of brown and red shades of dye I was ready to revisit black hair. I purchased Clairol Nice n Easy Natural Blue Black from Walgreen's for my new shade. Prior to dyeing my hair I read the instructions and saw that it was not recommended to use the dye on hair that was previously treated with henna. The instructions did not say why so I had to do my own research. I came across these two articles:

Henna & Traditional Color

Hair Color Removers

I did not do the remover instead I opted to take my chances with the color over the henna.

The steps I follow for dyeing my hair include:

1. Application of the dye according to the instructions

2. Leaving the dye on for 40-45 minutes

3. Rinsing thoroughly

4. Deep conditioning for a very long time. I prefer to DC overnight

5. Styling my hair in a style that embraces the natural curl

Why?

Dye on my hair can be very drying and it can also stretch out the curl pattern. By DCing for a long time the dryness I experience is drastically decrease. Styling in a curl embraces style helps keep my curls from stretching - preventing a change in my texture. If I style correctly I will have major shrinkage and that is my sign that my curls still love me.

Protein Treatment

I did my first protein treatment since my youth and I want to wait a few days to post the results. The verdict is in and I LOVE IT! I refuse to buy anything else so I made my own treatment.

1/3 Cup Lustrasilk Shea Butter Cholesterol

1 Large Egg

2 tablespoons Olive Oil

Apply to entire head (dry hair) and let sit for 30 minutes. Rinse with cold water. Deep condition and style as usual.

I never did a protein treatment before because I ate a pretty high protein diet and I didn't want to overload. For the past few months my diet has been extremely poor and I could tell my hair was missing something. You know that voice in your head? It told me to try a protein treatment. I did and my hair feels so much stronger. As of this moment I have not decided if this is going to be a regular in my regimen. I will do it as needed.

Protein Treatment

I did my first protein treatment since my youth and I want to wait a few days to post the results. The verdict is in and I LOVE IT! I refuse to buy anything else so I made my own treatment.

1/3 Cup Lustrasilk Shea Butter Cholesterol

1 Large Egg

2 tablespoons Olive Oil

Apply to entire head (dry hair) and let sit for 30 minutes. Rinse with cold water. Deep condition and style as usual.

I never did a protein treatment before because I ate a pretty high protein diet and I didn't want to overload. For the past few months my diet has been extremely poor and I could tell my hair was missing something. You know that voice in your head? It told me to try a protein treatment. I did and my hair feels so much stronger. As of this moment I have not decided if this is going to be a regular in my regimen. I will do it as needed.

Combating Dry Hair

"Dry hair is hair that does not have enough moisture and oil to maintain its normal sheen and texture."

-Medline Plus

It seems like the biggest and most frustrating problem with hair problem is dryness. I base this assumption off of the fact that I get asked about this topic a lot.

External factors that contribute to dry hair:

• Shampooing too often
• Using a harsh shampoos
• Environmental elements

Internal factors that can contribute to dry hair:

• Nutrient deficiency
• Illness

Some suggested ways to combat dry hair include:

• Shampoo your hair with care-don’t go overboard
• Use a conditioner (deep, leave in, or a rinse out)
• Trim frayed/split/knotted ends
• Use a no heat styling methods
• Protect your hair from the elements (weather)
• Do hot Oil Treatments

Alternative methods:

• Aromatherapy - add a combination of six drops of lavender, bay and sandalwood essential oils with six ounces of warm sesame or soy oils then apply the oil to the hair, wrap in towel for 15 minutes, then rinse
• Food Therapy - Eat lots of food high in omega -3 fatty acids, such as fish. Add flaxseed oil to your diet; approximately two tablespoons a day added to popcorn or potatoes can replenish lost hair and skin oils.
• Mayo - comb the mayonnaise through your damp hair, then wrap your head in a towel, let it penetrate for at least 20 minutes and then shampoo.

I personally prefer to combat dry hair by:

-Moisturizing and Sealing regularly

-Using a conditoner/water mix spritz on my hair

-Wearing hats when the air is dry

-Deep Conditioning Weekly

Treating dry hair was not an overnight process. It took a few weeks of me treating my hair with love. It has been well worth. I showed my hair love and my hair is loving me in return. Patience is a virtue

Home Remedies For Dry Hair

Dry Hair

Dry Hair Remedies

Ingredients to Avoid And Why

After reading on numerous blogs about ingredients to stay away I became curious. Everyone says stay away but not too many say why. I think the further along we get on our natural journey the more we leave out little details because we assume that everyone knows the basic information already. So I compiled a list of the most frequently suggested to avoid ingredients and why they are disliked. This list is by no means all inclusive but features the ingredients that seem to be the most commonly discussed in the Naptural Realm.

Mineral Oil — A petroleum derivative that is found in many moisturizers and causes severe allergic reactions. Mineral oil is a derivative of crude oil (petroleum) that is used industrially as a cutting fluid and lubricating oil. This commonly used petroleum ingredient coats the skin and hair just like plastic wrap. The skin's natural barrier is disrupted as this plastic coating inhibits its ability to breathe and absorb the Natural Moisture Factor (moisture and nutrition). The skin's ability to release toxins and wastes is impossible through this "plastic wrap," which can promote acne and other disorders. It further hinders normal skin respiration/transpiration by keeping oxygen out. This process slows down skin function and normal cell development causing the skin to prematurely age. Holding in large a mounts of moisture in the skin can "flood" the biology and may result in immature, unhealthy, sensitive skin that dries out easily. Using this is like putting a seal over your skin, or wrapping it in plastic cling film. Think on this one….we put it all over our babies! (Baby Oil is 100% mineral oil)

Parabens — (Methyl, Propyl, Butyl, and Ethyl) Widely used as cosmetic preservatives and antimicrobials, even though they are known to be toxic and a leading cause of contact dermatitis. In addition, methyl paraben combines benzoic acid with the methyl group of chemicals, which are highly toxic. These can appear on labels as p-hydroxybenzoate (or PHB) esters. Some studies have shown that parabens mimic estrogen in rodents. The chemicals also have been shown to stimulate growth of human breast-cancer cells in the lab. A University of Reading study, published in the January 2004 Journal of Applied Toxicology, found that 18 of 20 breast tumors studied contained significant concentrations of parabens.

Petrolatum — This is a very cheap jelly made from mineral oil that causes such skin problems as photosensitivity and interference with the body's own natural moisturizing mechanism, which leads to dry skin and chapping. Oddly enough, this product often creates the very conditions it claims to alleviate! A petroleum-based grease that is used industrially as a grease component. Petrolatum exhibits many of the same potentially harmful properties as mineral oil.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate — A synthetic substance primarily used in shampoos for its detergent and foam-building abilities. It can cause eye irritations, skin rashes, hair loss, dry skin and allergic reactions. It is frequently disguised in pseudo-natural cosmetics with the parenthetic explanation that it "comes from coconut." In a 1983 report on the safety of sodium lauryl sulfate, The Journal of the American College of Toxicology concluded that "studies have indicated that sodium lauryl sulfate enters and maintains residual levels in the heart, lungs and the brain from skin contact." SLS is used in testing labs as the standard ingredient to irritate skin. Used as detergents and surfactants, these closely related compounds are found in car wash soaps, garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers. This product is in 90 per cent of all shampoos and really anything that foams.

Isopropyl Alcohol — This is a solvent and denaturant (poisonous substance that changes another substances natural qualities). Isopropyl alcohol is found in hair color rinses, body rubs, hand lotions, after-shave lotions, fragrances and many other cosmetics. This petroleum-derived substance is also used in antifreeze and as a solvent in shellac. Napptural hair reacts very badly to isoalcohol and this ingredient should be avoided at ALL costs. It will dry your hair out and break it off. According to A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, inhalation or ingestion of the vapor may cause headaches, flushing, dizziness, mental depression, nausea, vomiting, narcosis and even coma.

Propylene Glycol (PG)— As a "surfactant" or wetting agent and solvent, this ingredient is actually the active component in antifreeze. There is no difference between the PG used in industry and the PG used in personal care products. It is used in industry to break down protein and cellular structure (what the skin is made of) yet is found in most forms of make-up, hair products, lotions, after-shave, deodorants, mouthwashes and toothpaste. It is also used in food processing. Because of its ability to quickly penetrate the skin, the EPA requires workers to wear protective gloves, clothing and goggles when working with this toxic substance. The Material Safety Data Sheets warn against skin contact, as PG has systemic consequences such as brain, liver and kidney abnormalities. Consumers are not protected nor is there a warning label on products such as stick deodorants, where the concentration is greater than that in most industrial applications.

DEA(dienthanolamine) MEA(monoethanolamine) TEA(methanolamine) — DEA and MEA are usually listed after another product such as lauramide DEA. They are carcinogenic and hormone disruptors. Used repeatedly, they can cause liver and kidney cancer. They are usually in products like bubble bath, hand wash, shampoos, soaps and cleansers, shower gels and body washes, basically anything that foams.

Stearalkonium chloride — This chemical is used in hair conditioners and creams. It causes allergic reactions and as it is cheap, and also used in fabric softeners, it is easier for companies to use rather than spending the money on plant based ingredients which are deemed expensive, even though the natural products really do boost hair and skin health.

And finally....cones. However those will have to be discussed in the next post.

References:

http://www.motherlove.com/faq_productstoavoid.php

http://www.nappturality.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=52:ingred-avoid&catid=34:careinfo&Itemid=30
http://www.well-women.com/chemicals.html

Ask Congress to Protect Pregnant Women from Cosmetics Chemicals